Johnson
Irrigation: Montreal, Certified, Irrigation
>> Water seeps from one sprinkler. Is there something wrong with the sprinkler?
>> Water seeps from one sprinkler. Is the system not turning off?
>> One zone continues to water after the cycle is complete. Is the controller broken?
>> Why does my timer keep blowing fuses or tripping the circuit breaker?
>> Can I override the rain sensor?
>> Why does the timer operate manually but does not operate when in "Auto" mode?
>> Why does my timer turn on more than one valve or station at a time?
>> Why are one or more of my sprinkler heads weeping or running continuously?
>> How many sprinkler heads can I run off one valve?
>> Can I run my underground sprinkler system from an outside tap?
No. Water will drain through the lowest head until the pipe empties. If
the seepage does not stop, the problem is with the valve that controls that
sprinkler zone. The problem could be as simple as a small piece of debris
inside the valve. Warning: Shut off the water supply before disassembling
the valve.
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No. Water may drain through the lowest sprinkler until the pipe empties.
Sprinklers can be equipped with check valves that can hold this water in the
pipes. If the seepage never stops, the problem is with the valve that controls
that sprinkler zone. The problem could be as simple as a small piece of debris
inside the valve preventing it from closing properly. Warning: Shut off the
water supply before disassembling the valve.
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Probably not, but to make sure, pull the power cord from the wall, removing
power from the controller. If the water continues to run, the problem is with
the zone valve. If the water stops, the controller is at fault. Double-check
the programming.
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One or more of the electric control valves has a shorted solenoid, or there
is a short in the wiring. If you have a multi meter or volt meter you can
check your wiring and solenoids for shorts and continuity. Otherwise, try
switching another solenoid from a functioning valve to see if the problem
valve will turn on. If so, replace the solenoid. If not, you may have to replace
the wiring.
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Check the transformer for output (24VAC). Push the red power reset button
or verify that the fuse is good. Turn on a station manually and check the
output at that station (24 VAC). If there is proper voltage, there may be
a problem with the wiring or the solenoid on that valve. If the valve has
a flow control, be sure it is open all the way. If there is low voltage, the
timer needs to be replaced. If you have a rain sensor, that may be stopping
the system as well.
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It depends on your controller and wiring. Newer controllers have a dedicated
port where the rain sensor may be connected. If the sensor is wired into this
port you should be able to override it. If the port is not used or is not
present then the sensor has been hard wired to the system. If this is the
case, the only way to override the sensor is to manually bypass it outside
at the sensor.
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There is an error in programming. Reset the timer and then reprogram.
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This is generally a wiring problem between the timer and the valves. To
be sure, check the output at the timer and verify that there is voltage only
at the station that the display indicates is watering. If so, then electrical
current from one valve is transferring to the wires on the other valve causing
them both to open. Replace the wiring to the valves.
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This is generally because of a ruptured or torn diaphragm in one or more
of the control valves. Be sure that the valve is not installed backwards.
Make sure the solenoid plunger is not stuck or missing. Remove the solenoid
and check for debris or a missing plunger. If everything looks functional,
remove the cover assembly and check the diaphragm and lower valve body diaphragm
seat for chips, fractures, or debris. If the diaphragm is torn, ruptured,
or has a tiny pin hole, replace it. If there is a chip or fracture in the
lower valve body, replace the valve. For additional help, refer to the troubleshooting
section of the specific valve model number.
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The number of sprinkler heads you can run at one time depends on:
Sometimes a sprinkler system has not been laid out properly to give adequate coverage to the yard. The spray pattern from each sprayhead should overlap with the spray patterns of the heads next to it. Johnson Irrigation recommends overlapping the spray patterns 100% of the radius (50% of the diameter). You accomplish this overlap by spacing the heads at the distance they will spray (i.e. - if your heads spray 10 feet, space them 10 feet apart). This constitutes "Head to Head" coverage, which evens out the water distribution across your yard.
This may sound like a lot of heads, but it can actually save you quite a
bit in water bills over the years. You won’t need to run your system
as long in order to get sufficient coverage. The combination of the right
heads with the proper spacing should result in balanced water distribution,
and ultimately a beautiful looking lawn you can enjoy.
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Yes, but it will usually cost more. A sprinkler system normally uses quite
a bit of water, measured in gallons per minute (GPM). Most sprinkler zones
will use from 8 to 12 GPM as they operate. An outside tap cannot supply nearly
that amount of water, due to the size limitations within the tap itself, and
often due of the size of the pipe running to the tap. You would need to measure
the available GPM at the tap to see how many heads could run at one time (each
head operates at a specific GPM).
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A computerized sprinkler timer should have a battery back-up to maintain
the program during a power outage. Check behind the front panel of the timer
(there is usually an access panel) where you should find connections for a
9 volt battery. Read any instructions you may find, since some timers require
rechargeable batteries, while others require alkaline. Connecting a good battery
should solve your problem, assuming your power outages are not so long and
so often that your battery can not keep up (a new battery should normally
last about a year).
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The next time the zone sticks on, unplug your timer.
If the watering stops, you have a problem with your timer and should have it checked or replaced.
If it does not stop running, you have a stuck control valve. If you’re
not sure which valve it is, feel the valves when that zone is stuck on, and
you should be able to tell which valve water is running through. Some valves
will have a flow control on them (i.e.- a shutoff on the valve, which might
look like a knob, tee handle, or sometimes like a screw head on the top of
the valve). If yours does, try shutting it off. If the zone shuts off, you’ve
found the right one. Two things will normally cause a stuck valve. One could
be debris, like a rock or stick, which has become lodged under the diaphragm
(i.e. - a large rubber disk inside the valve), or the other is that the diaphragm
itself is bad, becoming hard or cracked due to age or water conditions. Either
problem will require shutting off the water supply to the valve, disassembling
the valve, and correcting the problem.
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No, what you have described is normal. The reason for turning the bleed
screw is to release some pressure, and therefore some water, from the top
of the valve’s diaphragm, which causes the diaphragm to open and water
to pass through the valve. Once you close the bleed screw, it should stop
seeping water, and the valve should close.
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If you have lost your controllers manual?
In the event that you can't find an answer to your question in our 'frequently asked question' list, please don't hesitate to contact us.
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Copyright © 2003 Johnson Irrigation Inc. All rights reserved. Last modified: 03/01/2008